World-class cuisine

     By Chris Jones
     View staff writer
      Thanks to Southern Nevada's decade-long growth spurt, new restaurants have been popping up like mushrooms all across the valley.
      Quantity doesn't always translate to quality, however, which is why Henderson residents Nellu and Elena Baciu decided to throw their hats into the mix by taking over a small cafe in Green Valley.
      The husband and wife are the new owners of Cafe Trattoria Magia, a European gourmet restaurant located at 4650 E. Sunset Road, just west of Mountain Vista Street. The 2,000-square-foot facility opened under different ownership several months ago before the Bacius took over in late December.
      As restaurateurs, the Baciu's philosophy is a simple one: provide good food, good service and low prices in a family-style atmosphere. And as it says on their menu, "Little things matter."
      Their attention to detail starts with the menu, which combines traditional Italian fare with other favorites from across the globe. Chef Elena Baciu, who makes every dish fresh to order, said the restaurant's international style stems from her love of different kinds of food.
      "I love what I do," she said. "Food for me means everything. It doesn't matter what culture you're from, it's important to try different things because you might like them."
      Cafe Trattoria Magia's menu features a variety of dishes from throughout the world, ranging from Russia's beef stroganoff ($13.65) to England's pork loin medallion ($14.65). Nellu Baciu dipped into yet another corner of the world, this time Turkey, to find his favorite dish -- stuffed cabbage rolls ($12.65).
      Appetizers, desserts and a list of fine wines are also available to round out the menu.
      Another house specialty is preparing the favorite foods of popular stars from the entertainment world, such as Al Pacino and the late Frank Sinatra.
      Fulfilling the American dream, the couple first immigrated to the United States from Romania in the mid-1980s and quickly found themselves catering parties and events for corporate executives, politicians and the Hollywood elite. Soon Nellu Baciu was learning the secrets of the stars' palates while working for several years at Jason's Restaurant in Los Angeles, a popular dining spot among the Hollywood crowd.
      "I know what each one likes the most," Nellu Baciu said. "My wife and I would provide catering for movie stars. She did the cooking and I did the service. We've prepared food for people like Ronald Reagan, George Bush, Janet Jackson and Sylvester Stallone."
      Life in Los Angeles wasn't all sunshine for the couple, who fled the area in search of more-stable ground following the January 1994 earthquake that shook much of Southern California.
      The couple landed in Albuquerque, N.M., where they operated another venture called Baciu's European Restaurant before deciding to relocate to Southern Nevada in October 1997.
      "We saw everyone else moving here and thought it would be a good place to open a restaurant of our own," Nellu Baciu said.
      Not long after their arrival in Nevada, Elena Baciu resumed her work as a caterer while taking a job as a chef at Henderson's Courtyard by Marriott hotel. Nellu Baciu spent his days working as a real estate agent, but all the while the couple kept their eyes open for the right opportunity to open a another restaurant.
      "I had been the maitre d' at the Green Lips Cafe (in Henderson) for 18 months, and I helped the place grow their business with my service," Nellu Baciu said. "Me and my wife had wanted a little place of our own, so when this opportunity came up, we decided to start offering some different kinds of food that Las Vegas hasn't had before."
      Nellu Baciu said he has worked in the restaurant field "all my life" and sets high standards for his employees.
      "We'll always do a nice presentation," Nellu Baciu said. "Everything has to be done in the right way."
      A stickler for service, Nellu Baciu said he wants his customers to feel like guests in his home while dining in the restaurant.
      "At this place, everybody is going to call you `madame' or `sir,' " Nellu Baciu said. "The waiters will be trained by me, and they will provide absolutely the same service as I would."
      He also insists on providing table-side service, where salads and other dishes are finished on a small cart as the customer looks on. Another unique trait: Even the traditional 15-percent tip is optional.
      "And I understand everyone works for a salary," Nellu Baciu said. "I don't want people to feel like they can't come here to eat if they don't have the extra money for the tip."
      While he's confident in his ability to present a pleasant dining experience, Nellu Baciu knows the customers will be the ultimate judges.
      "My words aren't so good, but I can talk much better by presenting good service and food," he said. "I hope they'll find out very soon that this kind of place exists."
      Dinner is served nightly beginning at 4 p.m. Those interested can call 436-2522.