Wednesday, May 03, 2000


Eatery to serve slice of Sicily


     By Sonya Padgett
     
View staff writer
      Steven Rich may not have Italian blood coursing through his veins, but he's bringing a touch of Sicily to southeast Las Vegas with the opening of Buca di Beppo, a Southern Italian restaurant in which he is part owner and general manager.
      Buca's is a new style of Italian restaurant where customers are treated as family and the food is served on giant platters as though patrons are sitting at the table dining with neighbors.
      "What we try to do is bring the immigrant Southern Italian culture to the neighborhood," said Rich, Paisano Partner for the city's second Buca's, which is scheduled to open May 17 at 412 E. Flamingo Road.
      Each of the 40 locations throughout the nation has a Paisano Partner who is also part owner, which helps ensure the quality of the food and service since the partner has a stake in the restaurant's success. Paisanos also get involved in the neighborhood, supporting charities and other local agencies.
      Buca president, partner and CEO Joseph Micatrotto said Italians reserve the term "paisano" to describe their most trusted compatriots -- friends who are like family.
      "Extending from the Southern Italian culture, the Paisano Partner is the person we trust to look after the Buca di Beppo business and family," Micatrotto said. "No other restaurant has developed a partnership quite like this one."
      Paisanos don't have to be Italian, either.
      "The boss has a saying -- being Italian isn't in the blood in your veins, but the spirit in your heart," Rich said.
      Roughly translated, Buca di Beppo means Joe's basement, and following the basement concept, the walls are decorated with an assorted mish-mash, including photos of infamous and famous Italians, cheesy paintings and murals. The 7,500-square-foot restaurant seats about 281 people and is divided into several rooms. There is the Pope's Room, which has a round table that seats about 17. A lazy Susan sits in the middle of the table and displays a glass-encased bust of the Pope.
      Smaller rooms include the Passion Pit, where the walls are painted with purple-and-gold grapes and decorated with love-themed pictures. The Wine Room has a Frank Sinatra shrine, and the Poster Room a collage of Italian movie posters on the dome ceiling.
      Then there is the Kitchen Table, big enough for eight. Diners have a clear view into the kitchen and can watch their food being prepared.
      Rich said the whole concept is to make patrons feel welcome. Once someone eats at Buca's, he or she becomes Buca-tized, Rich said, and dining out will never be the same.
      "It's enjoyable; it's phenomenal food," said assistant general manager Matthew Ventura. "The food is cooked from the heart; that's what makes it special."
      The cuisine is Sicilian-style, using the basics of Italian food -- tomatoes, garlic and olive oil. Buca's corporate chef travels to Southern Italy twice a year to get new ideas and recipes.
      Nothing on the menu is more than $20, and the portions are definitely designed for sharing. Most people leave with Buca-bags containing leftovers, since meals such as the large pasta dishes can feed five to seven people.
      For instance, the spaghetti and meatballs are made with 2 pounds of pasta, a pound of marinara sauce and three half-pound meatballs. Rich calls the chicken cacciatore "7 pounds of love" because it's made with 2 pounds of garlic mashed potatoes, a pound of marinara sauce and a 4-pound chicken cut into eight pieces. Small portions are available and will feed two to four depending on individual appetites.
      Rich said the desserts are equally tantalizing. The Italian bread pudding, made with a secret recipe and served in a pan the size of a shoebox, is one of his favorites.
      He's hoping the restaurant becomes a favorite of Las Vegas diners.
      "There are a lot of restaurants," Rich said. "But Buca's fills a neighborhood need."
      The restaurant will be open from 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays, 4 to 11 p.m. Saturdays and noon to 10 p.m. Sundays. Reservations can be made by calling 866-2867.


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