Zion National Park's east side is well known as the best place in the park to explore side canyons on your own, but there also are a few official hikes worth taking. A good place to start is the Canyon Overlook Trail.
The trail, built in 1932, offers tremendous high-up views of many of the park's sandstone monoliths, provides a look down into one of the finest slot canyons in the park, Pine Creek Canyon, and offers an opportunity to learn about some of the plants along the way.
Just getting to the trailhead is appealing, since you'll be driving through the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. As you make your way up to the tunnel, you'll be maneuvering along six switchbacks at a very steep grade. Along the way, you won't be able to miss your hiking destination, the Great Arch. This is properly called a blind arch, because it is not free-standing and you can't walk through it. It is more than 700 feet wide, close to 600 feet high and almost 100 feet deep. On this hike, you will be standing on the very top of the arch.
The tunnel is 1.1 miles long and quite the engineering feat. It took workers three years to construct the tunnel, and it opened in 1930. It is very narrow, dark and unlike any other tunnel you have ever been through. Because its design did not contemplate some of today's larger vehicles, such as RVs or buses, all traffic in the opposite direction has to wait while they travel through.
You will find the well-signed trailhead on the north side of the road about 50 yards after you exit the tunnel.
The first part of the hike involves climbing some sandstone steps up to a very rocky section set within Zion's most common plant community, a pinyon-juniper woodland.
The trail is only a 1-mile round-trip, with about a 150-foot elevation gain, but plan on spending at least an hour to allow for the uneven footing, slippery surfaces and time to enjoy the plants and the overlook. Although there are some railings along the way, it is not a safe hike for younger children because of the cliff exposure.
Although pinyon pine and Utah juniper are the core plants, you also will see plenty of shrub live oak and Utah serviceberry.
Keep an eye out for the Plateau and western whiptail lizards, recognized by the way they whip their tail back and forth for balance as they head across the trail at breakneck speeds. Birds commonly found here are the canyon wren and sapsucker. Other wildlife making this area home include the ringtail cat, porcupine and mountain lion, but it would be rare to see any of them. Of course, getting on the trail at dawn might increase your chances.
The trail meanders high up on the north side of Pine Creek Canyon. As you travel along the trail, you'll have many opportunities to peer down into the drainage that lies hundreds of feet below. Over time, water has eroded the rock into a very deep and narrow slot canyon. For those of you who are experienced technical canyoneers and acquire a permit, you'll find it to be one of the most interesting slots to explore in Zion.
Once you reach the wooden bridge, the hike really gets interesting. This bridge allows you to travel safely over a high cliff and into the security of a large alcove. This overhang provides relief during warm days on this sun-exposed trail. Water also cools things down as there is a constant seep down through the sandstone. This is an ideal habitat for maidenhair ferns, and if you explore the area carefully, you might even see giant helleborines, an orchid, now in bloom.
More color can be found in other areas along the trail, such as from lichen growing in various shades of green, orange, red and gray on nearby rocks. The manzanita also is an interesting plant to look for, easily recognizable due to its deep red, twisted and sturdy branches. I tangled with these in the backcountry once and they are a good way to break an ankle or worse. Also look for prickly pear cactus and narrow-leaf yucca.
The overlook has some of the park's best high-up views of West and East Temples, Towers of the Virgin and the Streaked Wall, all important landmarks to locals. Below you lies lower Pine Creek. This time of year, you will see a ribbon of greenery flanking the drainage. This riparian habitat consists of Fremont cottonwood, box elder and velvet ash. Farther downstream, if you look carefully, you will be able to see where Pine Creek finishes its final journey and drains into the North Fork of the Virgin River.
In spring, there is usually a vigorous flow of water in the creek, and if you have time, hiking along these banks is an excellent adventure for half a day or longer. To access this unofficial hike, start at the north side of the Pine Creek Bridge, located at the start of the switchbacks, and head upstream, where you'll find plenty of large pools of water -- a few big and deep enough to swim in -- waterfalls and ample solitude.
An interesting note about this hike: Years ago while I was in Zion, two young men attempted to rappel down the Great Arch from the overlook. Their biggest worry should have been getting caught, as this is illegal, but they had far more serious problems -- their ropes weren't long enough to safely reach the ground. I was told they both survived the final free descent, but one of them was seriously injured.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborah@hikingthewest.com.
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