The Rattlesnake Creek trail, in southwestern Utah, makes an exceptional summer hike that takes you through forests, meadows, canyons and into and along two perennial streams, all while enjoying cool temperatures.
The trailhead is located just north of the Cedar Breaks National Monument boundary, on the Markagunt Plateau, at an elevation of 10,460 feet. This point-to-point hike descends about 3,500 feet over about 9 1/2, and ends about 8 miles east of Cedar City.
The well-signed trailhead starts off on a now abandoned jeep road in an open meadow. Within minutes, you will come across a sign indicating you are entering Ashdown Gorge Wilderness Area, which you will stay in for most of the hike. Soon after, you will enter a forest of subalpine fir and what's left of the area's Englemann spruce, as most of them now stand as skeletons from the decade-long bark beetle epidemic.
Within the first mile, look for the two spur trails to your left. These are well worth the few minutes of extra walking, as they lead you to excellent viewpoints of the hoodoo-filled Cedar Breaks amphitheater.
Back on the main route, continue as the path descends gently through an aspen grove, passing conifers, including a few ancient bristlecone pines, some over 1,000 years old. Keep an eye out for mule deer and golden-mantled ground squirrels.
Next, you'll come to a meadow and then back into another forested area. It's often so damp it's common to see toadstools and mushrooms. After about 2 1/2 miles from the trailhead, you arrive in a large, gently sloping meadow, called Stud Flat. This time of year, it is still dotted with wildflowers like asters, paintbrush and daisies. Yellow-bellied marmots are often found here, too.
The trail brings you into another wooded area, where a series of switchbacks help you travel down an extremely steep slope to Rattlesnake Creek. Cross the flow and pick up the path that heads generally west, paralleling the watercourse. You will find some good-sized ponderosa pines, many over 3 feet in width. There are a few that have fallen across the trail, but it's easy to scramble over them.
Continuing your descent, you will come to a junction. To the right is the signed High Mountain Trail that heads north near Sugarloaf Mountain. Go left, which takes you back over Rattlesnake Creek. As you cross the stream, take a short side excursion downstream to view a pretty 5-foot waterfall. Next is the only uphill section of the hike. You will travel about a mile up and over a unnamed ridge and then descend abruptly into Ashdown Creek and Gorge.
Ashdown Gorge is the main drainage of Cedar Breaks. If you have the time for a side trip, head left, or east, walk about 3 or 4 miles upstream, and you'll be standing at the base of the Cedar Breaks Amphitheater. For this hike though, go right. The final 3 miles is canyon hiking and in many places you will have to walk directly in the water.
The gorge, cut mostly through limestone, has walls rising 500 feet on both sides of you in some areas.
There are some social trails throughout that shortcut the stream meanders, but if you stay directly in the drainage, you will be rewarded with some alcoves, cascades, more waterfalls and unique water-loving plants you will not encounter otherwise. At least one golden eagle makes a summer home here, as I have seen one on each of my last three visits.
About 1 1/2 miles from where you dropped in the gorge, walk along the left (south) side of the drainage to get a chance to view Flanigan's Arch, located high up on the canyon's right (north) wall. The flat-topped arch spans about 50 feet and is about 100 feet high. It is located near two very large pinnacles of stone. If you can read a topographic map, bring along the United States Geological Survey's Flanigan Arch 1:24,000 topo. The arch is marked on this map, so you'll be able to find the general area in which to start looking.
From Flanigans, it is about 1 1/2 more miles to where the canyon opens up and you will be able to see cars driving by, high above you on the left. To make your exit easier, continue down the drainage until you reach the old double-track gravel road on your left, which will lead you up the pavement and the ride you will have prearranged to be waiting there.
Assuming you start in the early morning, be prepared for cool temperatures, in the 40s even in August. Bring along trekking poles. They will help on the descent and keep you balanced while walking in the streambed in the lower section.
Don't head into Ashdown Gorge without getting a weather forecast. There can be severe flash flooding in the gorge and many areas have no escape routes. There also are areas of wet clay in the lower 2 miles that act like quicksand. Getting both legs stuck takes some difficult maneuvering to get out.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborabus@aol.com.
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