There are several outstanding hot springs in Lake Mead National Recreation Area, but Gold Strike Hot Springs offers a bonus in that the hike to them is an exceptional outing all by itself. You will have to overcome some obstacles, perhaps testing your climbing and rock scrambling skills, but if you are up to the tasks you'll find a first-rate, half-day adventure.
Do it soon though, before the weather gets any warmer. On a sunny day temperatures in the canyon can be ten or fifteen degrees higher than Las Vegas.
The entire route will be in a canyon that has lots of excellent narrow sections and interesting rock formations. Right now, it's already teeming with wildflowers.
Although the rewards are great, it isn't a good trip for children; the four-mile roundtrip to the springs involves a lot of cliff exposure and there's an elevation loss of about 600 feet, which becomes an equivalent uphill trek on the return when many children will already be tired.
From the trailhead, the route is an obvious one. Start down the wash and you're immediately in upper Gold Strike Canyon. In just a minute you'll be underneath a long span of the yet-to-be-opened Hoover Dam Bypass, rising some 150 feet above the canyon floor. Because of construction work the land route to the hot springs was closed for nearly two years, reopening in November 2005.
If you were ever here prior to the construction project, you'll find things have changed, but considering the enormous amount of work that went on, they did an outstanding job of keeping the area in as natural a state as possible.
Look around for desert bighorn sheep, raptors and songbirds as well as a few vintage car wrecks on the hillside. Right now you'll find Arizona Lupine, globemallow and brittlebush in full bloom, adding brilliant color next to the canyon's dark lava rock.
The first mile or so is easy and the route self-explanatory. Your first major obstacle will be an enormous automobile-sized boulder wedged between the canyon walls. Head to the right and you'll notice a narrow opening where steps have been chipped into another large boulder. As in all tight areas such as these, take off your pack or detach its waist and chest straps when descending, for safety sake. This will help you shake the pack off quickly if you get into trouble on the descent.
Depending on which route down you choose in the next difficult section, you'll make at least two more awkward descents, and then you will start to see the first evidence of water, seeping out of the canyon wall. Continue another 100 yards to the first pools. They are all different temperatures and sizes, some man-made, others natural baths that have been deepened by sand bags.
The largest and perhaps the most choice pool is about 20 feet by 30 feet wide and boasts a four-and-one-half foot depth at its maximum. When I was here it was a pleasing 104 degrees. Another nearby pool was too hot to enter. Be careful before entering any pool or running your hand under any water. There is actually one area farther downstream where the water pours out of the rock at over 120 degrees. Sample the temperature each time before entering the water, because in some hot springs, the temperature can vary seasonally.
On two different days the last week of February, I was the only hiker, but I did run into a dozen or so workers from the Lake Mead Exotic Plant Management Team. They were removing tamarisk and other nonnative species along the entire length of the canyon.
Below the main pools the canyon narrows, and in another 50 yards or so you'll find another fixed rope on the right. When I visited, the rope was in pretty good shape and anchored properly. After checking the rope yourself, you can use it as a handline to descend another 15 feet. Here there is a pretty cascading waterfall on your left. This warm pour-off is rare, so enjoy.
To reach the Colorado River from here it will probably take you about 20 minutes. Along the way you'll find more pools, slippery algae covered rocks, more boulder choked areas and you'll arrive in Black Canyon, about two miles downstream of the Hoover Dam. The water in the river is in the low 50s, pretty chilly especially for bathers who have just come from the hot springs. Soaking where the hot water enters the river is fun, and by moving around you can find just the right temperature for your taste.
If you plan to soak in any of the pools, either bring along some water shoes or leave your boots on, the rocks are as sharp as glass. Another warning: these waters might carry Naegleria fowleri, an amoeba that could make you extremely sick. Be prudent and don't let the water anywhere near your mouth, nose or eyes and don't drink it. Bring your own drinking water and plenty of it. Never attempt a daytime hike here any time from late spring through early fall, it is way too hot. Always stay away when rain threatens, because of flash flood danger.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborah@hikingthewest.com.
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