Savoring select suds at local tastings

Discerning beer drinkers gather to sample brands

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By JAN HOGAN

VIEW STAFF WRITER

Don't expect to chug mugs and mugs of ice cold brews. Don't expect the strains of The O'Jays' "Love Train" to burst out of the sound system. Do plan to learn a lot about beer.

For more than a year, Lee's Discount Liquor at 7411 W. Lake Mead Blvd. has been hosting a weekly gathering focused on beer. They are held at 7 p.m. Wednesdays in a storefront adjacent to the shop.

At the helm of the sessions is Steve MacMillan, who celebrates his Scottish heritage by wearing a kilt, knee-highs and a leather vest over his white shirt. By day, he works in power line construction. He also teaches food and beverage students at UNLV the finer points of beer.

At the weekly beer tastings, he introduces attendees to brews with mostly European roots.

"If a Scottish beer is being served, it's a good excuse to wear my kilt," the 46-year-old MacMillan said.

At one recent event, MacMillan had three dozen attendees sipping Lia Fail Stone of Destiny ale; Blackfriar, which is based on an ancient brew; Wee Beast, a Scottish ale with a label detailing the devil dog who sat at the side of legendary Irish hero Cuchulain; and three German beers -- Kulmbacher, Schwarz and Special Rauchbier.

Each person received samples in plastic cups. Anyone who handled the brown bottles realized they were not chilled.

"Real beer is served at cellar temperature," MacMillan said. "The only iced beer you see is on TV commercials. And we don't do Budweiser, Coors or Miller."

At the weekly tastings, American beers bear the brunt of less-than-glowing remarks about their taste, fragrance and even alcoholic content.

Randy Smith, a diesel mechanic who lives on the outskirts of Summerlin, called himself a Budweiser convert.

"In fact, the first time I stumbled on the beer tasting, I was wearing a Budweiser T-shirt," he said. "Boy, he (MacMillan) really ripped on me for that."

During the tasting, one does not chug. One swirls the beer in the glass and sniffs its aroma. It's held up to the light to assess its color. Only then is the taste savored.

"It's almost like we're teasing ourselves," MacMillan said.

Members of the Southern Nevada Ale Fermentor's Union -- referred to as SNAFU -- spread the word among their members, and many now attend regularly. They include Jay and Martha Carr, northwest residents, who have been home brewers for about 10 years.

Jay Carr, an engineer, said he makes a 5-gallon batch about every month and has perfected his own mead recipe. Mead is a traditional style of beer.

Software writer Scott Alfter is another SNAFU member. He explained how home-brewed beer does not have good and bad years as it's "not dependent on grapes like wine is. Barley is hardier. It grows in a cooler climate."

The beers featured at the tasting cost $3 or $4 a bottle. Special releases can cost up to $15, but that's for a 1-liter bottle.

MacMillan gives a little history on each brew, commenting on its origins and what makes it stand out.

An Air Force brat, his first taste of beer was when his family lived in Germany. When they moved to an American base, he discovered top-brand American-made beers did not compare, calling them "watered-down versions."

MacMillan began brewing his own 21 years ago and said quality ingredients and sanitation are the secrets to a great brew. Any dust or bacteria in the mix will react with the yeast and it'll go bad.

"It won't put you in the hospital, but it'll taste like crud," he said.

Scott Hanning, general manager of Lee's, said the weekly event was inspired by the various wine and spirit tastings the store offers. The beer tastings receive little advertising. Store employees would mention it to customers who purchased European brands of beer.

As for MacMillan, he plans to open his own brewery in Ely sometime next year. He said it will be named White Pine Brewing Company and will feature a beer called White Pine Golden Ale, which he developed using a strain of hops found only in Nevada.

Meanwhile, he keeps finding great beer to tempt the taste buds of others.

"Beer companies are champing at the bit to get in there," MacMillan said of the tastings. "It's a chance to get their product out there, and for people, a chance to try a beer you normally would not know."