With all the dynamic developments in dining here over the last few years, something's been forgotten. Sure, celebrated chefs and restaurateurs are bringing more incredible options to the Strip, and nonstop growth is resulting in a terrific variety of ethnic eateries spread throughout the valley. But there's another type of restaurant, a truly American cuisine, that has maintained a consistent presence in Las Vegas, and it's worth remembering, even if it's not fancy or exotic.
Soul food is usually associated with African American communities of the South, but you can find a good soul kitchen in most large American cities these days, and Las Vegas is no different. It's hard to believe some people don't even consider this type of food to be a real "cuisine," especially since what so many Americans like to cook and eat at home -- comfort food -- is so heavily influenced by what is commonly called soul food.
Some are frightened away because of the presence of offal and other uncommon animal parts -- you know, pig's feet, hog jowls, etc. But to me, that's what makes it great. I may not enjoy chitterlings, but I have to respect that someone would throw some garlic and thyme on the small intestines of a pig and make a meal out of it.
For a long time, downtown favorite H&H B-B-Q seemed to be the epicenter of Las Vegas soul food. Sadly, it was destroyed by fire in 2003. A new incarnation of the restaurant called Sweet Georgia Brown's took up residency on East Flamingo Road before quietly closing a couple of years later. But carrying on the downtown soul food tradition is Big Mama's Rib Shack and Soul Food (2230 W. Bonanza Road), famous for pit-barbecued ribs and chicken, cornmeal-battered catfish and wonderfully crunchy fried chicken good enough to compete with the Popeye's across the street. Big Mama's also serves up those sometimes hard-to-find dishes like ham hocks and ox tails, as well as a solid take on classic Southern gumbo.
Also in the area is M & M Soul Food Cafe (3923 W. Charleston Blvd.), the local version of a popular Los Angeles restaurant. M & M serves up a mean breakfast, including liver and onions, salmon crochet and my current addiction -- fried catfish and eggs. As for dinner, all the traditional side dishes are there -- collard greens, red beans and rice, macaroni and cheese and black-eyed peas -- to complement slow-cooked beef short ribs and gravy-smothered chicken.
The city's center isn't the only place to find soul food. Kathy's Southern Cooking (6407 Mountain Vista St.) serves Louisiana recipes for etouffe and gumbo in Henderson, and Soul 2 Soul Bistro (2101 N. Rainbow Blvd.) adds a little Cajun and Caribbean flair to Southern cooking at its west side location. Soul 2 Soul's menu also includes some light and healthy options, such as salads and seafood -- not a common element at most soul food establishments.
Barbecued meats are commonly associated with this kind of food and one of the best new 'cue restaurants around is T.C.'s Rib Crib (8470 W. Desert Inn Road).
This friendly, family operated joint boasts some great brisket, pulled pork, hot links, ribs and chicken, all topped off by a secret recipe sauce that should be sold everywhere.
In comparison to great American cities, Las Vegas gets knocked for not having a lot of things -- art, culture, ethical politicians, to name a few. Say what you will, but you can't say we don't have soul.
Brock Radke's food column appears twice monthly. Contact him at bradke@viewnews.com.
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