deborah wall/special to viewNatural light filters down through Upper Antelope Canyon, located on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona.
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Antelope Canyon, located near Page, Ariz., is one of the most photographed canyons in the southwest. You probably have seen a photograph of one the corkscrew slots of colorful Navajo sandstone. There are dozens in the area, but more often than not, they are located in remote places and extremely hard to access. Antelope Canyon, on the other hand, is relatively easy to get to, but you will need a guide to see it.
The canyon, which drains into Lake Powell, is located on the Navajo Reservation, home to about 300,000 people and encompassing 27,000 square miles in Arizona, Utah and New Mexico.
There are two excellent slots to visit in the canyon: Upper Antelope, which the Navajo call Tse bighanilini, meaning "the place where water runs through rocks," and Lower Antelope, which is known as Hasdeztwazi or "Spiral Rock Arches."
If you have time to visit only one of the slots, as they are usually done as separate excursions, I would recommend Upper Antelope Canyon. It is the easier of the two to access and even young children can walk it. I think it also is the more stunning. If you just walked up the slot and returned, it would only take 10 or 15 minutes, but that would be a shame. Take it slow and enjoy the different colors at every bend, the echoes of sound and the fabulous formations within.
Only 15 minutes outside of Page, where the majority of the tours leave from, the fun begins. Here your guide takes the 4-by-4 vehicle off the pavement and down into a wide, sandy wash. It only will be about two miles up the drainage to where the wash suddenly ends. Here, a narrow fracture in the sandstone cliff marks the beginning of the slot.
The Navajo consider this place unique and sacred. When I last visited, our guide said the slot was like a cathedral to him.
He advised us to leave all our problems behind, and upon entering, soak up the majestic beauty of the place and let it become a spiritual experience.
The Navajo sandstone has been shaped over the years by wind and water. The upper canyon has walls that reach more than 100 feet high in some places, yet in many areas, you can reach out with your arms and simultaneously touch the walls on both sides.
When sunlight filters in, it transforms the sandstone into multiple colors. In some areas, where the light is quite bright, visitors are treated to shades of red, orange, yellows and pinks, while in other areas, it remains fairly dark and the sandstone takes on cooler colors, such as blues, grays and purples.
Once within the canyon, be sure to look up along your way so you don't miss the numerous formations, often bearing very appropriate names.
Look for The Bear, The Weeping Eye and The Dancing Flame and then allow your mind to wander and find the dozens more waiting for you to visualize. About halfway through the slot, look for the large juniper log wedged 30 feet or so up from the canyon floor. This is a result of a major flash flood a decade or so ago, a testament to the extreme power of water.
Although the canyon is usually dry, it can quickly become a raging torrent of water, mud and debris after a rain. Although thunderstorms are more common in late summer, they can happen any time of year.
Ten years ago, in August, 11 tourists were killed while visiting Lower Antelope Canyon when a flash flood from an afternoon thunderstorm, which took place many miles upstream, caught them by surprise.
Although I am not usually a fan of guided tours, this is a good one. The guides are well versed in Navajo history and will fill you in on the cultural significance of the canyon.
Guided tours of Antelope Canyon are available from a variety of outfitters in Page. Although tours might be available by just dropping in, I would recommend making reservations.
You wouldn't want to miss out on seeing this canyon. Visit www.pagelakepowelltourism.com for more information.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborabus@aol.com.