Deborah Wall/Special to ViewManly Beacon is the prominent point on the left, with Red Cathedral in the background at the Furnace Creek badlands in Death Valley National Park.
Advertisement
Temperatures are heating up in Death Valley National Park so if you want to hike its lower elevations this season, you had better go soon. One trail not to be missed is the one from Zabriskie Point through Golden Canyon.
Located in the Black Mountains, which flank Death Valley proper to the east, this point-to-point hike starts in the Furnace Creek badlands and finishes up near Badwater Road. Of course, if you can't arrange to get picked up at the terminus, you can start at either end, travel as far as you feel comfortable, and return the way you came.
When doing this as a through hike it is a moderate 2.5 miles. Although suitable for older children, it's not advisable for young ones, as it is a bit long and there are some drop-offs over steep terrain in a couple of areas.
It also is an exposed hike, and the badland terrain tends to hold heat, so be prepared for temperatures even warmer than in nearby areas. This time of year, average daytime highs, in low elevations of the park, are already in the high 70s or low 80s. Don't forget the hat, sunscreen and more water than you expect to need.
The trail starts on the northwest side of the Zabriskie Point parking area. Before starting on the trail, though, take time to hike up to the point itself. It's less than a five-minute paved walk to the overlook, and here you will be treated to one of the park's most stunning sights. Not only are there far-reaching views of the majestic Panamint Mountains to the west, but also to the vast badlands below, through which you will be hiking. Zabriskie Point is one of the premiere places to take in a Death Valley sunset or sunrise.
The point was named after Christian Brevoort Zabriskie, vice president and general manager of the Pacific Coast Borax Co. for 36 years, until he retired in 1933.
As you are returning down to the parking area, look for the official trail on your left. It is faint, but it is outlined with small rocks. Immediately, the trail heads west and starts descending into the badlands.
Nine million years ago, this area was under water. The ancient lake held water for several million years during which deep sediments collected. These included saline muds, gravel from mountains and ash from the Black Mountain volcanic field. All this collected debris together is known as the Furnace Creek formation. Building up of the mountains to the west eventually caused the lake to dry up. Geological uplift and tilting, followed by erosion, carved out the badlands you see today.
Imagine yourself deep in a maze surrounded by thousands of gullies and ravines, and you will have mentally pictured much of this hike's upper end. As you serpentine your way down through this labyrinth, it can be very confusing which way to go.
Pay careful attention to the metal signs along the way. Few other trails have so much signage, but on this hike it is essential to avoid getting lost. If you get too far off track in these badlands, it might take a very long time to find your way out.
When hiking this trail recently, I came upon a memorial made of small boulders gathered around a cross with a small, engraved plaque. This was placed to mark the death of a German woman who succumbed to heat stroke while hiking there in May 2006.
Altogether, you will lose about 830 feet in elevation by the time you arrive at the Golden Canyon trailhead, which lies at 160 feet below sea level. But the way isn't all downhill, and within the first one-and-one-half miles, it undulates quite a bit. This makes more work, but will come as a welcome relief for those whose knees suffer during treks that are unrelentingly downhill.
From here the trail ascends steeply and you will arrive on the south side of Manly Beacon. This prominent outcrop was formed because lava caprock, from eruptions 3-5 million years ago, protected everything underneath it from erosion. The place was named after William Manly, one of the life-saving men who guided hard-pressed 49ers out of Death Valley during the gold rush.
Continuing on, the trail skirts Manly Beacon to the left and then makes a steep descent into Golden Canyon. From here on, you most likely will see many hikers who have traveled the one mile up from the trailhead below. Once in the canyon proper, the official trail goes left, but if you have the time and are willing to add another 0.8 miles round trip to your outing, go right. This will bring you to an area called Red Cathedral, where steep and colorful cliffs dominate the view. Iron oxide creates their reddish tint.
Returning to Golden Canyon, it is about one mile of easy, but sometimes rocky, walking to the trailhead. One of the most interesting things along the way is the evidence of an old road that was once here.
In February 1976, during a four-day storm which dumped 2.3 inches of rain, a surge of water, mud and boulders came down these narrows taking most of the road with it.
The moral: If rain threatens, save this hike for another day.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborabus@aol.com.
Archived Editions| Advertising | Contact The Staff
