Photos by deborah wall/special to vIEW Top, a petroglyph panel on Atlatl Rock in Valley of Fire State Park depicts bighorn sheep, human forms, an atlatl and many symbols with meanings that remain mysteries. Bottom, metal stairs were installed on this rocky outcropping to access the petroglyphs on Atlatl Rock.
Photos by deborah wall/special to vIEW Top, a petroglyph panel on Atlatl Rock in Valley of Fire State Park depicts bighorn sheep, human forms, an atlatl and many symbols with meanings that remain mysteries. Bottom, metal stairs were installed on this rocky outcropping to access the petroglyphs on Atlatl Rock.
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Nevada's first and largest state park, Valley of Fire, is a big draw for Southern Nevadans who come to admire its vibrant red sandstone landscape. The fiery colored formations, a result of trace iron minerals that have oxidized, were created over millions of years, the result of uplifting and faulting, followed by erosion.
Although just driving through the park is well worth a trip itself, there are a few easily accessed stops, which will turn a routine visit into a more rewarding one.
One good place to concentrate is the area around Atlatl Rock. Here you will find one of the most interesting petroglyph sites in the park, as well as some spectacular rock formations. Atlatl Rock is actually a large boulder that sits atop an even larger sandstone outcropping, some of it covered with desert varnish, a thin, dark natural coat of fine-grained clay minerals.
To gain access, the park has installed metal stairs that lead up to a level platform where you can get a close look at the rock art. Prehistoric people pecked or etched pictures or symbols through the dark desert varnish surface of the rock, exposing the lighter-colored rock beneath.
The main petroglyph panel contains easily recognized etchings, such as desert bighorn sheep and human forms, while others appear to be just symbols with meanings that remain mysteries. One of the most unusual, which gave the location its name, depicts the ancient weapon called an atlatl.
Hunters and warriors used the atlatl to add force and range when throwing light spears. It often was made of wood and about 2 feet long. On one end was a handhold; on the other, a notch or hook, which engaged the butt of the spear. The user would hook a spear onto the atlatl, with the spear lying atop the atlatl's length. He would bring both atlatl and spear back over his shoulder, then whip them forward toward the target in much the same way as if throwing a full-sized spear or javelin. But the atlatl served as a lever, in effect lengthening the user's arm by a couple of feet, and imparting much more centrifugal force to the spear before it finally parted company with the atlatl. Although the atlatl is thought to predate the bow and arrow, it was better for certain purposes and some tribesmen still used it in the 20th century.
Human history in the park dates back to 300 B.C., when people called the Basket Makers lived here, and continued through about 1150 A.D. with the Ancestral Puebloans. The desert tribes of later centuries did not leave so many traces, perhaps because the climate became harsher and they spent less time there. The state park was dedicated in 1935.
Once you come down the stairs, instead of returning to the parking area, head south around the base of the outcropping. Look around for the boulder that is packed with more petroglyphs. Behind this you can head up the outcropping and take in some excellent views. On your way up, look for the naturally formed water tank or tinaja, an important drinking spot for area wildlife. At the moment, it may still be holding some water from our recent rains.
Once you return to the parking area, you can set off on a two-mile scenic drive that loops around and back to the main road, but exploring afoot is much more rewarding. There are plenty of interesting formations along the road but the crème de la crème is Arch Rock, located about one and one half miles into the loop. The arch is visible on the left side of the road on top of a sandstone outcropping. To access it, walk around to the left of the outcropping and behind the arch and then head up the sandstone. Never climb on top of the arch itself, and the park asks visitors to limit their group size to no more than 10.
In the sandy areas beneath your feet take time to look for animal tracks. White-tailed antelope ground squirrels, black-tailed jackrabbits, kit foxes and spotted skunks make their home here, as well as 13 species of lizards and 15 species of snakes. Resident birds include the raven, house finch and roadrunner, and in winter, there are occasionally bald and golden eagle sightings.
If the idea of the atlatl caught your interest, mark your calendar for April 5 and 6, when devotees of the ancient but sophisticated weaponry gather here for the World Atlatl Association's annual meeting and show off their skills. Although there are seriously competitive events, there also are events for those lacking confidence, competence or competitive personality. Even children are welcome to try; and if you don't happen to own atlatls and spears, the park will loan you equipment.
When visiting rock art sites such as these, remember to never touch the petroglyphs, as the natural oils in our hands will damage them. Also, stay off any boulder, rock or cliff that bears petroglyphs. Damaging even the surrounding rock has hurt some of these irreplaceable artifacts in ways those who did the damage never foresaw.
To add to your experience, make a stop at the visitor center two miles east of Atlatl Rock. There are exceptional exhibits on the geology, human history and wildlife in the park. The center is open daily, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborabus@aol.com.
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