deborah wall/special to viewThe Historic Railroad Tunnel Trail in Lake Mead National Recreation Area takes hikers through five tunnels, all about 300 feet long and 25 feet wide.
deborah wall/special to viewThe trail is not only a good hike for its historic qualities, but has sweeping views down into Boulder Basin.
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The Historic Railroad Tunnel Trail in Lake Mead National Recreation Area is a triple treat, offering not only history, but stunning views of Lake Mead and the inherently interesting experience of walking through five tunnels.
Furthermore, it's easy. Because steam railroads required minimal elevation gain, the hikers who inherited the engines' retired roadbeds need not huff and puff like "The Little Engine That Could."
Surrounded by volcanic cliffs, this wide gravel trail is suitable for hikers, bicyclists or for those pushing a jogging stroller. If you take along ambulatory children or uncoordinated adults, though, beware of the severe dropoffs along the route.
A round trip through all five tunnels and back is about five miles, but if time allows, you can easily continue all the way to Hoover Dam. This will add an additional three miles to a round trip.
From the trailhead, go west a few dozen yards up the wide and obvious paved trail. Go left onto the signed gravel trail and this will head you southeast for 100 yards or so to join the old railroad bed. Here you will head east for the rest of the trail.
In 1931, the U.S. government undertook the grandest construction project ever -- building Boulder Dam (now called Hoover Dam). The government and six western firms, collectively known as Six Companies Inc., built three rail segments, totaling almost 30 miles. The standard gauge, 90-pound rails connected cement mixing plants, quarry pits and other facilities needed to build the dam. When in full operation, the special-purpose railroads required nine steam locomotives, four that ran on gasoline and more than 70 workers.
The segment you will be hiking was the U.S. Government Construction Railroad section and ran from Boulder City down to Hemenway Wash, and then to the Himix, a concrete mixing plant at the rim of Black Canyon. After the dam was completed in 1935, many parts of these tracks were either flooded over or highly damaged. This segment, though, was still used occasionally until 1961, when one final delivery was made of a generator to the dam's power plant. The following year, the tracks were removed and sold as scrap.
About one-half mile into the hike, you will come to the first of a series of benches installed by the park service. These are located at various intervals all along the way to the fifth tunnel. If you look up the volcanic cliffs from this first bench, you will see a large, car-sized boulder. If this should ever fall, which could be thousands of years from now, I would imagine this boulder would happily roll or bounce down directly to where this bench is located.
A few minutes' walk from here, you will notice a narrow and unmarked spur trail on your right that heads up the left side of a steep ravine. This path is an access route from the trail's alternate starting point in the Hacienda Hotel and Casino's east parking lot. This part of the railroad trail was used in "The Gauntlet," a 1977 Clint Eastwood film. An assassin in a helicopter was chasing Eastwood and Sandra Locke as they sped away on a motorcycle.
Continuing around a bend in the trail, look down the embankment on your right and you will see an enormous pile of broken cement. These are concrete plugs that were removed from the dam to install turbines.
About one mile from the trailhead, you will reach the first tunnel. Each tunnel is approximately 300 feet in length and about 25 feet in diameter. They were built oversized to accommodate the large equipment and penstock sections that were being brought to the dam. If you look closely on the tunnel walls and on the ground for droppings, you will see evidence that birds, as well as bats, make their home here.
I also have heard a rattlesnake had been spotted near the entrance of the third tunnel recently, but on two recent visits, I didn't happen to see one. This time of year, they might be out sunning themselves during the day. They seem to enjoy the 70- to 90-degree temperature range.
As you approach the fifth tunnel, look high above the entrance and you will see a stone wall and maybe even some people. This is the parking area for the drive-in Lakeview Scenic Overlook. This tunnel was sealed in 1978 after being burned by arsonists, but was reopened in 2001. This tunnel is unique because you can't see the exit point when you first enter, so it is very dark.
Most people turn around at the fifth tunnel and return to the trailhead, but some continue to the dam. The rest of the path is well-graded and makes its way past Bureau of Reclamation buildings, the new dam bypass highway and winds up at the dam parking garage. It's mostly downhill.
Remember that the part of the trail after the fifth tunnel is designated for day use only, with a locking gate to make the designation meaningful, so be sure to leave the area in time.
Deborah Wall is the author of "Great Hikes, A Cerca Country Guide," published by Stephens Press. She can be reached at Deborabus@aol.com.
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